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The Crimean Green Trail is a once abandoned tourist hiking route, and now it is a revived area of active recreation on the peninsula. This road has many secrets and a rich history, reflecting not only the biography of the famous writer, but also the real facts of the events that influenced the development of Crimea.
History of the route
The name of the route and the name of the famous writer Alexander Green have a direct connection. But the history of this path began long before him. Until the 20th century, there was a road on the site of the future writer's path. This tract connected the sea coast and the Old Crimea, which in those days was not just a village, and the whole capital of the Tatar part of the peninsula, which was called Solkhat.
By the 20th century, Solkhat had turned into a small settlement, and the once important trade road became a neglected path around which a dense southern forest began to grow. For the first time, Alexander Green appeared here in 1930, 2 years before his death, when, for financial reasons, he was forced to move from the"road" of Feodosia to the Old Crimea.
Walking along a forest path between mountain heights for the writer became something that inspired him to sketch a few diary sketches. He wrote that ancient spirits of the mountains live on the road, which cause visions in tired travelers, and if you stand for a long time in one place, you can feel an inexplicable fear.
Nevertheless, almost until his last days, Alexander Grin began to walk along the old road to Koktebel to visit Maximilian Voloshin. The friendship of the two writers became a reason to forget about the unpleasant memories associated with the trail.
Green died in 1932, and practically a couple of months after his funeral, the famous road"from Green to Voloshin" began to be called the Green's Trail.
Description and duration
The first description of the road from Solkhat to the Crimean coast dates back to the 19th century. According to some sources, it was a map of a Bulgarian merchant, which clearly indicated the distance of the road - 16 walking versts. By the time Green was walking, the road had shrunk a little - to 15 kilometers. Tourists will have to walk about the same distance today.
The tourist route begins in the town of Stary Krym. From it, almost immediately, a winding trail will lead you to one of the iconic places of the route - Osmanov Yar. According to the Crimean legend, there was once the lair of the bandit Osman, who robbed the trade carts coming from Solkhat. This legend did not go further than the Tatar population, but the toponym has remained so to this day.
After the ravine, the road leads to a forest where century-old oaks and southern pines grow. At the edge of the forest, you can see a place where archaeological excavations have been conducted for several decades - here were once discovered< strong> ancient tombs of the Taurus, but already the first mentions of them were as of plundered graves. Nearby archaeologists have found a settlement XIII centuries.
When the thicket ends, the road winds along the valley to the lake Armutluk. Before going out to it, you can relax in a gazebo specially built here. Already from the valley a view of Koktebel opens, but there will be several kilometers ahead, so the apparent proximity of the village is just an illusion.
The valley ends with the spurs of Kara-Dag, which are considered the most difficult part of the path. On them, the path becomes so narrow that you have to go one by one. Some sections of the mountain path have been blown by the wind for many years, so you have to navigate along the road ahead.
These places are remarkable in that here guests of the peninsula can see the very"Tatar" Crimea, which is little written about in guidebooks. and which used to be not very popular. The region of the spurs was chosen by Fyodor Bondarchuk for the textured filming of several scenes of the film"9th Company".
The Green's Trail ends with an exit to the Shebetovka-Koktebel highway. At this point, you just need to follow the signs and boldly enter the legendary Crimean village.
The central attractions of the Green's Trail are located at the end points of the route - in the city of Stary Krym and the village of Koktebel. Most tourists begin their route by visiting the main places of the Old Crimea.
The main museum of the city is the House-Museum of Alexander Grin, the place where the writer spent the last months of his life. Not without the participation of his widow, Nina Nikolaevna Green, this place has preserved the atmosphere of the modest home of an impoverished writer. The partially recreated workplace and other personal belongings of Green have been preserved here in excellent condition. A must for fans is a visit to the grave of Alexander Green at the city cemetery.
Another memorial museum of the city is the House-Museum of Konstantin Paustovsky. The writer stayed there for a very short time - only to visit the grave of his idol, Alexander Green. Nevertheless - in 2005 the museum was opened in one of the houses that Paustovsky rented in the Old Crimea.
House-Museum of Konstantin Paustovsky
In the Literary and Art Museum of the Old Crimea you can see exhibitions dedicated to other creative people, in some way connected with the history of the city. Among such people was the poet Yulia Drunina, poets Andrei Bely and Osip Mandelstam, sculptor Tatyana Gagarina, screenwriter Alexei Kapler.
The houses of the historic center will become important attractions of the ancient city. The strong influence of the Tatar architectural traditions has been preserved here. The ruins of the Beibars Mosque are considered the most ancient structure of Muslims who have ever lived in Crimea. Nearby is the beautifully preserved Mosque of Khan Uzbek dating from the 14th century.
Mosque of Khan Uzbek
Not far from Green's Trail there is a spring of St. Panteleimon. The spring with crystal clear water has been forgotten for many decades, but with the collapse of the USSR, it was again marked on the map of the tourist route. Not so long ago, a small chapel was built next to it. Any tourist can draw water from the spring, completely free of charge.
The main attraction of Koktebel, of course, is the House-Museum of Maximilian Voloshin. In addition to permanent exhibitions, it becomes the venue for an annual literary festival dedicated to the life and work of the poet.
House-Museum of Maximilian Voloshin
It is believed that the air of the Green's Trail has a healing effect. The thing is, that the route passes through several zones with a large difference in elevation. The air of the winds of the steppes of the central Crimea, the winds of rocky regions and the sea breeze mix here. With high humidity even on the hottest days, there is no heat here.
In addition to Alexander Grin, such famous creative personalities as Konstantin Paustovsky and even Alexander Griboyedov loved to walk along the Imaret Valley. But it was in honor of Green that this route, isolated from civilization, was named. Thus, the tribute to the memory of the famous romantic writer lives on today.
The peak of popularity of the tourist route fell on the 1960s, after the release of the film"Scarlet Sails" in 1961. In the Old Crimea, a tourist festival of the same name began to be held, dedicated to the work of Green. The traditional end of the festival days was a mass passage of all interested guests along the path. The passage ended with festive events in Koktebel.
It is believed that while walking along the Green's Trail, the legendary Soviet playwright and TV presenter Alexei Kapler came up with the idea of writing the script for the future film"Amphibian Man", the episodes of which, by the way, were shot on Crimean coast, in Laspi Bay.
The city of Old Crimea today is the only place on the peninsula where there is a legal hunting ground. The hunting grounds are located at a great distance from the Green's Trail, but if desired, you can purchase the appropriate permits and even rent hunting weapons. Hunters are brought to the site by experienced huntsmen.
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Topic: Green's Trail.